Showing posts with label nepal observations. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nepal observations. Show all posts

Monday, November 10, 2008

Shanti Sewa Griha



The Shanti Sewa Griha is a home and clinic for handicapped persons here in Nepal, where leprosy and polio patients live together with various mentally and socially disadvantaged people. My photo reportage from there, mainly about leprosy patients, is now viewable on my web site (parts of it, at least). Go have a look if you're curious: Leprosy in Nepal.

Having seen it, perhaps you'd like to support the project. And you can, for free! The Shanti Sewa Griha is one of 12 finalists in the 2008 World Challenge Competition, and there's a couple of weeks left for you to vote. Vote here! I know they'll appreciate it, so many thanks for your support!

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Leprosy in Nepal

A few photos from today. I am doing a reportage from a local leprosy hospital/home. Nepal is one of the few countries in the world where people still get leprosy. It’s a double curse here, where fear and superstition results in victims being social outcasts, sometimes even stoned to death.


Sudarsan (12) and his brother Narayan (6) are confined to their bed, while their mother watches over them, feeds them, cleans them etc.


A couple of leprosy hit boys racing up and down the hallway in a wheelchair.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Happy Tihar!



What a night it was. Whole city turned into Las Vegas for three nights here.

For those of you not familiar with Hindu culture, this is the time to celebrate the victory of good over evil and various other things, the festival of lights also known as Diwali and Dipawali down south. In latin or something, guess it’ll be called a “photo festival”…

Funny culture, first day is the day of Crows, where “there’s no crows to be seen anywhere”. They’ve all magically disappeared… Nevertheless, I saw plenty of those black screeqing birds. Well, next day Dogs are celebrated by smearing their head and feet in red vermillion and third day (which was yesterday) is the first of the three proper holidays and the god Laxmi is worshiped. She’s the god of money and business, so hope she’ll smile at us this year! Sabina did her best (photo above). It was also the day of Cows, and today is the day of Oxens. And tomorrow, it’s “Bhai Tikka”, where sisters take pleasure in giving their brothers “tikka”, the red vermillion coloured rice, in their foreheads. Little brothers travel from all across the country in order to get this tikka. All very significant and an auspicious occasion…

Anyway, yesterday I had one of those rare days where I didn’t have 17 things I had to do. I’ve finished a little update of my web site, put some slideshows on there and there’s also the result of my little experimental photo collaboration project, Celebration of Eid around the World (link removed, my new site is here). Have a look…


And oh, here's Subic "dancing" in a firecracker...


Saturday, August 9, 2008

Freedom of speech, movement ??

Think I've mentioned it before here, but it's kind'a important. Tibetans are protesting against Chinese human rights violations in Nepal. Still. Since 10. March. And of course also now, during the Olympics. And despite Nepal's ban on all anti-Chinese activities. I'll not repeat the gruesome details again now, but Chinese torture etc. is well documented. And if you've ever spoken with some of the underground activists, you'll understand their continued protests. But Nepal is ignoring their protests, despite all the talk about a new nepal and such. Friday, at the opening day of the Olympics, Nepal Police had even put up check points around Tibetan settlements in Kathmandu and stopped them from going to the centre of the capital - purely based on them being Tibetan. I'm not sure how many international human rights they broke that day... So thought I'd share this little photo essay with you. I was embedded with about a hundred Tibetans, mostly monks, trying to sneak out of their virtual captivity. Unsuccessfully. They were intercepted and detained...

(again, I forgot my sound recording gear, so no multimedia this time.)



Trying to exercise free speech...



...but met by Nepal's Police...



...and rounded up with some force...



...then loaded up on some overcrowded trucks...



...and driven away to shadow-land.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

New Prez in Nepal


President Ram Baran Yadav outside the BICC / Nepal’s interim parliament. © Morten Svenningsen


We got a new president, a first, here in Nepal yesterday. Dr. Ram Baran Yadav, a 61 year old physician. Much to the dissatisfaction of the Maoists, their candidate didn’t win the secret parlamentary election and they are currently in a meeting to decide on their further participation in government. Fears are that they will pull out completely and return to warfare in light of the new anti-Maoist coalition that has emerged. Chairman Prachanda has called it an “un-holy alliance”, peculiar choice of words for a Maoist. But media are perhaps exaggerating the conflict overtones - wouldn’t be the first time. At the voting venue yesterday there actually was a quite jovial atmosphere among the MP’s. But let’s see.

The last weeks I’ve started to realized what a creative stand-still I’ve been in the last year. Or two. I’m mostly talking about the fields of contemporary photojournalism and world-class environmental portraits. I think I’ve been doing a decent job with the camera for a while but perhaps in a slightly boring way. Very controlled, technically superb but could have stronger appeal. From now on I think I’ve worked out how to improve and get some spontanuity in my documentary photos. It mostly rely on a feeling but in involves taking more of the whole frame into consideration in the shots. Not just the subject and the timing. There’s something for me to work on over the next months. The photo above, I think, is an example of an ok beginning! So stay tuned if you want to follow my progress into the stratosphere of photojournalism!


(By the way, what happened to nice fonts on Blogger and why have all my inbound links to my homepage suddenly disappeared in Google's webmaster control panel? Is Google loosing it??)


...Oh yeah, for photos please contact the photographer here...

Thursday, May 29, 2008

Monarchy Abolished

Nepal declared a federal democratic republic. King given 15 days to leave the Palace.

Late last night at 23.30, the first meeting of the newly elected constituent assembly abolished Nepal’s 240 year old monarchy by overwhelming majority. Of 564 members present, only 4 voted against the motion, which is less than 1%.

King Gyanendra is expected to accept the declaration and is now set to live the rest of his life as a normal citizen of Nepal.

It is especially a victory of the Maoists who started a war against the establishment 12 years ago. But the turning point in public opinion against monarchy was the palace massacre that happened 7 years ago. It is now common belief that King Gyanendra orchestrated the massacre of his own brother, the then King Birendra, and his family, in order to assume the throne himself. 3 years ago the king tightened control further by closing the parlament and taking direct control of the country. The coup’d’etat failed in 2006 and since then the King’s powers have been stripped.

Royalist supporting Hindu fundamentalists have detonated small bombs in Kathmandu the last 3 days, but without anybody seriously hurt. Their supporters are few and vanish in the crowds of republic supporters. Embassies still advice caution in public gatherings.

2 days public holiday has been declared Thursday and Friday to celebrate the declaration.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Chasing holy cows


A holy cow in Nepal. Except it’s a bull...
© Morten Svenningsen

We had a little banda here in Kathmandu yesterday, a strike. One Maoist commander had kidnapped one of their own supporters and beat him up together with a couple of regular PLA’s. The poor guy later died of “multiple organ failure and excessive bleeding”. So his family, together with the support of rival party, NC, closed down the capital in protest. Meanwhile, top political leaders of the unelected lame duck government continue their exclusive closed door haggling to decide on vital issues before the newly elected representatives have their first meeting on the 28th. Have they really not understood the concept of democracy yet? To let the elected representatives make the decisions in stead of a handful of party bosses. Apparently not!

On a personal note, the battle continues. I’m still in a writing spree and cranking out articles by the dusin. Pitching some of them, like for instance a story about holy cows. Hence the photo above. (The article is available for publishing if you’re a publisher reading this.) Mostly though, I’m writing small tutorials on being a freelance photographer. Tricks of the trade. I’ve had this book idea for a couple of years now, been taking notes all along. So now I’m writing and editing it down to an article series, and I’ll compile the whole thing into a little eBook. Not sure when it’ll be finished. Every time I write one article, I get an idea for one or two other articles...

Had another couple of sales on Alamy last week, making things look a little more promising on that front. Otherwise just waiting for the 28th...

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Nepal update


There’s still ”load-shedding” around here (scheduled power-cuts) but it’s now down from some 40 hours a week to ”only” about 20 hours. The show must go on, so this is what I look like when I’m writing in the evenings.

Hi there, just felt it was time for a little rant about big and small things. Here goes.

This just in: Today the Chinese managed to scale Everest with the Olympic torch. (The summit of Everest is in Nepal, FYI.)

Great. How many torches do they have anyway. A week ago it was on the way up, then it was in Hong Kong and now it’s on top again. And it’s flying around, back and forth across the world. Defeats the whole idea, IMO. The only proper way to carry the torch is by hand, running from Athens to Beijing. And the whole Everest thing. Again, same feeling of couldn’t care less. It’s a freaking government / military operation or whatever. And they’re stopping everybody else from going there in the process. Then what’s the point. Their sorry little media stunt may impress some of their own people, but not me. Scaling Everest’s got to be done with the right spirit, and this is not it. Throwing everybody of the mountain and such, good old Charlie Haviland (my colleague from BBC) and that American guy who’s now expelled from Nepal.

How can the Nepalese government, even the Maoists, support China’s suppression of Tibetan demonstrations? Hell, even do the same thing themselves here in the streets of Kathmandu every day? It’s only 2 years ago that the Nepalese government and Maoists got to power on the basis of exact similar mass uprising by the people! And now you get expelled for peacefully supporting a similar cause. Well, it’s no secret that China is a strategically important partner for Nepal so they’ll apparently go along way to be the good little neighbor.


But enough of that. What’s it like here anyway?

During the last month it’s gotten a lot warmer around here, humidity is on the rise and we’ve started to get thunder and afternoon showers. Is it related to the Burma cyclone? Maybe a little spin-off of the same weather system. I’m not a religious man, but my prayers goes out to the people in Burma these days. Some of the nicest and most innocent people I’ve ever met. Firs the violent suppression of the monks protests and now this. And the whole military regime to begin with.

Election results are out now, Maoist didn’t get majority but they are comfortably the biggest party now. What a turn of events. So now we’re waiting for the first meeting in the new (care-taker) parliament, no date yet but can’t be long. And the de-throning, which they’ve said they’ll try and do peacefully.

And me, I’ve started writing again. Well, I never really stopped but I’m now starting to crank out more stories now. (Newest one here: Hinduism & Buddhism combined.) Putting the ‘J’ back in ‘PJ’ - Photo-Journalist.

And then I’ve also started teaching Danish language to a bunch of Nepali guys who’s going there later in the year. For now it’s just a 2 month gig but if it’s a success, I might continue longer. The institute that hired me already asked me to continue and the word got out -as it always does in Nepal- so another institute contacted me. So sure, there’s still enough work around here, at the same time insisting on having time for the little family and the usual round of domestic chores.

I think that’s about it. Thunder clouds are starting to roll in and the unreliable power is getting more and more unreliable, so I’ll switch of now. ‘Till next time...

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Nepal: Post-election thoughts


Maoist supporter holding up their well-know symbol.
© Morten Svenningsen 2008


While the ballots are still being counted, it is now safe to say that the Maoists were the big winners of last week constituent assembly election here in Nepal. They’ve secured more than half of the seats in the first-past-the-post election constituency that’s been counted so far (114 out of 207) and about a third of the votes in the proportional representation election so far. If this tendency holds, they stand to get about 250 of the 601 seats in the new all-powerful assembly. It’s not impossible that they will actually get a bit more, giving them an absolute majority! A bit of a shocker to everyone, themselves included I’m sure, despite what some of them have been saying.

The election day went by quite peacefully although the days leading up to it was marred by some violence, with 5 or 6 people killed in various clashes that threatened to make it look like Kenya for a while. But were some of the votes given under duress? These allegations are starting to appear from various quarters, most notably Minister Mahat of the still ruling Congress party who stands to loose control over the government. Re-polling still have to take place in almost a 100 polling stations where the election was cancelled due to irregularities. But by and large, whatever happens, it seems that the election results are being accepted as “free and fair”, if not 100% then at least close enough - enough to accept the election result and continue with the next step.

So what is the next step? Well, first there’s been some “bad omens” here, in the highly superstitious country. Just after Maoist leader Prachanda gave his victory speech, a virulent storm descended on the valley, chasing everybody into shelter. A day later, a 100 feet high pole fell down and injured 12 people during a festival. Same thing happened just before the 2001 royal massacre. And in Bhaktapur where I was celebrating Nepalese New Year, the crowd had to abandon the chariot before it had completed it’s ritual journey (it’s a long explanation). They sacrificed a few roosters the next morning so maybe it’s all cool with the Gods now.

No, seriously, it’s now unavoidable: They’re gonna turn this country into a (communist) republic and abolish the monarchy. (Personally, I can’t wait to see what’s gonna happen to the king!) Then they’ll rewrite the constitution and start to run this country in some way. That’s also gonna be really interesting to witness.

I can’t help but think how the Maoists are gonna manage the task, if they’re up to it. So far their activities have been mostly of a destructive nature, being against the establishment and this and that. Now they are the establishment and they have to show themselves constructive in rebuilding the country and delivering on their promises. I don’t want to be too pessimistic, but I am afraid that they will disappoint the optimistic population who have just given them the chance they have been asking for to lead the country (and turn it into an Asian Switzerland in 10 years, remember Prachanda actually said that?-). Again, with risk of being too much a generalist, some of these voters are really politically naive, IMHO. The Maoists don’t have a magic wand to make it all better overnight and, what’s more interesting, do they have control over their rank and file? - And can they now control and manage the nation and it’s administration without resorting to high-handedness?

Well, maybe they can pull it off. They’ve now got the chance no matter why people voted for them. In fact it might be more correct to say that the people voted, not for the Maoists, but against the old NC and UML party bosses. So from next month, I’ll probably be living in a communist republic! Whooo, what’s that gonna be like?

Saturday, April 5, 2008

A time to vote


Nepal deciding on monarchy. Well, sort of. At least in final preparations for holding election to a constituent assembly.
Photo © Morten Svenningsen.

Everybody’s talking ‘bout it here, so thought I’d give you my perspective as well...


We’re entering into uncertain times here in Nepal - again. It’s just 5 days to the election here, and it’s by no means an ordinary one. In fact, it can turn out to be a historic milestone in the country’s path towards democracy. Or it can turn out to be the spark that ignites new strife and civil war. My guess is it’ll turn out to be a little bit of both, typical Nepali style, neither this nor that, yes and no at the same time!


The fact that it’s an important event is not hard to miss. No matter who you talk to these days, the subject always turns to the election. And it seems every office you call, you get the same answer: Come back after the election! Four public holidays have been declared next week, schools closed for two weeks, the border with India sealed for 48 hours, alcohol banned on election day and the city here (Kathmandu) is buzzing with speeches coming out of distorting loudspeakers and international reporters and observers etc. Even good old Jimmy Carter is on his way here.

No, there’s definitely something special going on in Nepal these days!


Personally, I’m hoping for the best but preparing for the worst. The election itself can easily be marred by violence and bomb blasts, but it now seems unstoppable, unlike the previous two occasions where it was postponed - not to mention the general mess when the previous election term expired and they weren’t capable / willing to hold a new one.

So OK, the election is coming and besides the actual election results, there’s some other interesting points up in the air:


What’s the election aftermath going to look like?
- Hopefully not Kenya! While the first election results should start to tick in in the ensuing days, we’ll probably have to wait several weeks for the final result - perhaps even months. The country will be in a state of limbo, and there’ll be plenty of opportunity for disgruntled election losers to stir up trouble in the streets. For instance (but not excluding others) the Maoists have already stated that, since they are sure to win, any other result must be equal to fraud and rigged results by the usual “regressive forces etc.”, and therefore completely unacceptable!

Irregularities are almost sure to arise, but even if they don’t, it won’t exactly be a “free and fair” democratic election. Some of the dubious points already:

1. The Code of Conduct has not been adhered to. There has been election related violence, bomb blasts and killings already. Intimidations have been used. Part of the population are afraid to go and give their vote.

2. The candidates are not selected democratically. They have been appointed by the party leaders who again have the power to decide which candidate should get the seats the party has won. It’s not necessarily the candidate with the most votes who get the seat!

3. Top candidates have been given the “safe” election constituencies. Especially women candidates have been given the constituencies that the respective parties stand to loose.

4. Many voters simply don’t understand the election and how to vote. It has been made fairly complicated with a mixed voting system comprising both the first-past-the-post system and the proportional representation system.

But perfectly free and fair elections aside, it might still turn out to be “good enough and workable” to draw up a new constitution. Then again, it might not...


So what’s gonna happen to the King?
Good question, guess they’ll have to de-throne him somehow. It’s now actually written in the (amendment of the) interim constitution that monarchy will be abolished in the first session of the newly elected “all-powerful assembly”. Funny way of playing democracy, isn’t it? Going through all the trouble of electing 601 representatives who’s duty it then is - not to decide on, but - to implement an already stipulated condition, haggled in place by 3 old, male, upper-caste Pahadi tyrants!


So who’s gonna win the damn thing?
Anybody’s guess, really. Estimates I’ve heard can’t be described as being representative for Nepal’s extremely diverse population. I’m also not gonna dare a guess, so no conclusions here, but Madhav Kumar Nepal’s UML party could get a good share if they don’t loose too much to the Maoists. Maoists probably haven’t won many votes on the basis of their 10 year campaign of violence, but they represent change and so could take a lot of protest votes. The last of the big 3, the now re-unified Congress-niks have traditional support from traditionalists. And Nepal is in many ways a country of tradition. But will they stand this time? No answer here, no conclusion. But wait and see...


PS: However it’s gonna play out, I’ll be posting photo’s of the events on this page : Nepal election photos. - So be sure to check in from time to time.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Is it worth it?

(on Tibet & Alamy)



Norbu Gualtsen Rangzen (28), son of Tibetan refugee in Nepal, sustained injuries on his head, arm and back from police beatings during a peace march to mark the anniversary of the 1959 Lhasa uprising. Kathmandu, Nepal, 10. March 2008.


On Monday the Tibetans here in Kathmandu had a big demonstration, intending to march to the Chinese Embassy to deliver a letter demanding an end to the almost 60 year long Chinese occupation of their country. It was the 49 year anniversary of the Tibetan Uprising a.k.a. the Lhasa Massacre that forced the Dalai Lama to flee into exile in India. Allegedly, the Chinese government had put some pressure on the Nepalese authorities to suppress the event. They don’t want any negative publicity before the Beijing Olympics this summer, I gather. So the Nepal Police met the demonstration with force (see the above photo), but this time the Tibetans actually got within shouting distance of the Chinese Embassy.


Some background: I read somewhere that before the Chinese invasion, Tibet had about 5000 temples and monasteries. Today there’s only 2 left, the remaining 4998 having been demolished by Chinese “development aid”. Officially, Nepal recognizes China’s claim to Tibet, like many other countries. That’s realpolitik, considering China’s position in today’s world economy. Nepal still allows Tibetan refugees to cross into Nepal though, which about 2000 of them still do every year.


Later that night on BBC, some expert said he expects the last remains of Tibet to be gone within 10 years. I sometimes wonder how enlightened Tibetans view this historic development, being firm believers in the karma theory: If something bad happens to you, it’s because of the negative deeds you have performed in your past lives... Since the Tibetan exodus, the before so closed culture and religion have been forced to open up and have now actually gained worldwide popularity and support by Richard Gere, Uma Thurman’s dad and the likes. Is the whole thing some sort of divine play?



My stock photography


On another note, I just discovered last night that I’ve actually had my first 3 sales on Alamy during the last 3 months! One photo for an American school book, one photo for a British magazine and one photo yesterday that went into a large, national British newspaper with a circulation of 1 million. Cool! I quickly did the math and found out, money-wise, that it gives me a RPI of just around 1$. Less cool.


What is RPI?

Return Per Image (Per Year). This is the figure you get when you look at how much you’ve earned compared to how many photos you’ve had on sale for a year. A very useful benchmark in the stock photography business, since you can also use it to estimate your future income. Very useful.


How do you calculate your RPI?

You’ll need to know how many photos you’ve had on sale and for how long. And of course how much they’ve earned you. I’ll show you my numbers this time, so follow the example if you’re also a stock shooter and want to calculate your RPI.




































number of
photos uploaded

how many months
available online

yearly
equivalent *
10
8
6.7
278
6.5
150.6
21
4.5
7.9
122
1
10.2

* multiply the two other numbers and divide by 12 (months in a year)

TOTAL EQUIVALENT = 6.7+150.6+7.9+10.2 = 175 photos / yr


Total sales = $265

My cut (65%) = $172

My RPI = $172/175 = $0.98


$1 per photo per year is of course a ridiculous low number when you consider the time spent. I reckon roughly one hour for post-processing, upsizing, spot-checking, keywording, uploading, backing up etc. - not to mention time for research, training, the actual fieldwork, marketing and the investment in camera gear, computer and the whole setup. So is it worth it? -Not if you look at it that way, surely. But I’m also gaining valuable experience in this bizarre marketplace and so I expect to improve my RPI over time. + On long term, the photos will likely keep selling for perhaps 5 years or more. + I get “my name out there”, which has some marketing value, I suppose. + There’s always that chance that one of the photos is gonna get picked up for a global advertising campaign and fetch $10.000 or so.


Conclusion: Doing stock photography is a long term project which, in my case, has just begun. It might actually just be worth it!



Friday, March 7, 2008

Down for the count

A naga-baba* smoking a chillum on Shivaratri. Photo © by Morten Svenningsen 6. March 2008.

*If you’re not familiar with the term: a naked Hindu ascetic who have renounced the world - and the use of clothes.


The last 24 hours I’ve been through a cycle of dizziness, constipation, cramps, vomiting, diarrhea and now just headache and exhaustion. Thank God it seems to be over. It all started a few hours after I took the above photos while visiting the pilgrimage site where 178 Baba’s are smoking their fat, marihuana-stuffed chillums. And of course, nobody believes me when I say : I did NOT have a puff from the pipe!


Lately I’ve finally had some days with some more time on my hands, so I’ve started to make some improvements on my web-site. I’ve found a really cool way to make galleries, so looking forward to finishing that up.


For now though, it’s been put on hold, since Sabina’s brother is getting married. I only knew Sabina half a year before we got married and I thought that was rather quick, but this guy... He flew in from Europe Tuesday night, met the girl first time Wednesday morning, got officially engaged Thursday and they now have 2 days to organize everything, hand-deliver invitation cards to well over 100 people, organize the food and music, buy gifts, rings and all the other ceremonial paraphernalia, have tailor-made suits ordered and delivered etc. etc. Wedding takes place Sunday morning at 9.30, that apparently being an astrological optimum timing. Why the rush? Nobody gets married in the month of “Chait” (which starts next week). Everybody knows that here. That would be like celebrating Christmas in July or something.


Well, I’ve gotten used to lot’s of things here in Nepal, so this is not really anything special for me. But it does make me think a bit. Not sure what the point is, just a little illustration of that whole east-west thing, everything is so different that I’ve never been able to pin-point exactly what it is I love about living in Nepal. Chaos is such a negative word...


By the way: The Tarai shut-down is now over so we have normal supply of goods in Kathmandu again (=still shortage, just not so acute). And the traffic jams are also back!

Saturday, February 23, 2008

Conflict and approaching election in the Tarai and Nepal.

WARNING: Hold on to your chair, get a cup of coffee ‘cause this is gonna be a bit lengthy post, this one! A tentative analysis on current affairs here. (Part 1)


Only 2 liters pr person. Hundreds of people in Kathmandu are queuing up all morning to get a bit of kerosene fuel for cooking. Supplies are hit by acute shortage. Photo 21. February 2008 © Morten Svenningsen.

For more than a week now, the Tarai region of Nepal (southern lowlands bordering India) have been home to demonstrations, road blockades and violent clashes between police and demonstrators. Vandalism, torching, bombings have ensued, curfews clamped and hundreds are hurt and one person killed.


The immediate effects are not only limited to the region, but have partly paralyzed the capital and the rest of the nation. As all fuel are being trucked in from India, the shut-down in Tarai has cut off the capital Kathmandu and added acutely to the general fuel shortage. 70% of public transport are off the road, held up in mile-long queues outside closed petrol stations. Schools and businesses have closed and tourists are stranded around in various parts of the country as people are no-longer able to commute. Gas and kerosene is largely used for cooking. Prices are regulated by the government but a black market has emerged, on which prices in some instances have doubled, primarily hitting the poorest part of the population.


On longer term, the civil unrest threatens to disrupt the constituent assembly election scheduled for April 10 and, if a solution is not found, the situation can escalate and ultimately tear the country apart.



Who, what and why?

The people living in the Tarai region are a mixed lot. There are indigenous groups, groups culturally linked to neighbouring India and migrant groups who have moved there from the upper hill regions during the last one or two generations. And their demands vary from some sort of symbolic recognition, to autonomous self-governance and complete independence from the rest of Nepal.


Nepal is a multi-ethnic country, but in it’s present 240 year old incarnation, it has been ruled and dominated by an elite minority of powerful upper caste Hindu men from Kathmandu and the middle hill region. So Kathmandu-centered have the society been that you still find old people who uses “Nepal” as a term meaning “The Kathmandu Valley”.


In some cases the people of Tarai have not enjoyed the same civil rights as the elite and the economic development has been markedly slower in the Tarai region despite the more fertile land and geographic advantages.


With a derogatory term, the hill people are still heard from time to time referring to their Tarai countrymen as “dhoti’s”.


These are some of the main woes of the Tarai inhabitants, also referred to as Madheshi’s.



A political hodgepodge

But it is hard to pin down an exact agenda for this “Madheshi movement”. In fact there are more than 20 separate groups claiming to represent the Madheshi’s. If you will allow me to be light-hearted for a moment, it can remind one of a scene in Monty Pyton’s comedy “Life of Brian”. The dialogue goes something like this:



[Three men sitting and discussing politics in an arena:]


A: “Can I join you in the Peoples Revolutionary Front?”

B: “We’re not the Peoples Revolutionary Front, we’re the Revolutionary People’s Front!”

C: “I thought we were the Revolutionary Front of the People!!”

B: “No, he’s sitting over there!!!”



But it is tragic. Because many of the groups are militant as well as political and the death toll in Tarai since the People’s Uprising (Jana Andolan) in Nepal in 2006 is now somewhere in the region of 50 to 80 people. Long gone passed the 20 or so who died in the People’s Uprising in 2006. Here’s a quick list of some of the groups:

  • UMDF     United Democratic Madhesi Front, the umbrella
    organization behind the current unrest.
  • MJF       Madheshi Janadhikar Forum (a.k.a. Madheshi
    Peoples’ Rights Forum)
  • JTMM-G  Janatantrik Terai Mukti Morcha, Goit faction,
    a.k.a. Democratic Terai Liberation Front
  • JTMM-J  d.o. (Jwala Singh faction)
  • JTMM-B  d.o. (Bishfot Singh faction)
  • MMM      Madheshi Mukti Morcha
  • TMM      Tharu Mukti Morcha
  • MMF      Madhesh Mukti Force
  • MRMM    Madheshi Rashtriya Mukti Morcha (a.k.a.
    Madheshi National Liberation Front),
  • BMNF     The Broader Madheshi National Front
    consisting of the Dalit Janajati Party, Madhesi
    Loktantrik Morcha (Madheshi Democratic Party)
    and Loktantrik Madheshi Morcha (Democratic
    Madheshi Party)
  • JTLF      Janatantrik Terai Liberation Front
    (Maoist splinter group)
  • MM(L)T  Terai Tigers, a.k.a. Madheshi Mukti
    (Liberation) Tigers
  • MRB       Madhesh Raksha Bahini (the Madhesh
    Security Brigade) the militant youth wing of
    the Nepal Sadbhawana Party, NSP
 
(did I get all that right?...)
And some without fancy acronyms, but interesting names:
 
  • Terai Army
  • Royal Defence Army
  • Terai Cobra Group
  • Terai Baagi (Rebels)
  • Madheshi Virus Killers Party
 
and last, but not least the
 
  • YCL       Young Communist League, the Maoists’
    secret weapon. When the Maoists agreed to
    confine their troops in UN-supervised camps as
    part of the “comprehensive peace agreement”,
    they just set up a new wing (or rather,
    old wing) to take care of their “security issues”.
 

Mistrust and democratic spirit

The present complicated political scenario makes it nearly impossible to satisfy everyone through special negotiations. Mistrust is wide spread. Of course, one of the purposes of the constituent assembly election is to sort out the state structure through democratic process. In a democratic process, you don’t get more influence than taking part in shaping a new constitution. The Madheshi movements knows this but they demand to be promised “proportional representation”. They are not alone on this demand. Other ethnic groups like the Limbuwans, Khumbuwans, Dalits and Tamangs are pushing similar agendas.


But this is democracy misunderstood. Or at least distorted due to deep mistrust. In democracy you don’t necessarily cast your vote on the person who resembles you the most. You vote on whoever you trust and share views and political visions with. If all of Nepal’s more than 100 ethnic groups demand direct representation, it will be an ethnic assembly in stead of a political assembly. The inter-ethnic mistrust is deep-rooted when it comes to politics and have unfortunately been validated by history. As previously noted, power has always been centered around upper-caste Hindu men.



Election or explosion?

All this (and more) is spinning around the coming election twice postponed and now scheduled for April 10. Clapping with one hand, the Koirala Government promises to solve all problems (yes, they actually say “all problems”) but remains to show anything but complete political, democratic and managerial incompetence. The ageing and fragile prime minister, GP Koirala, has so far simply been unable to put his home in order. And the root causes of conflict remains: While the country is managing things (barely) on a macro-economic scale, it is in a micro-economic disaster. Unemployment is high and a couple of jumbo-jets are daily transporting people out of the country for foreign employment. And corruption continues unabated on all government levels.


Like the de-railed political process in Kenya, I fear that a similar situation is likely here in Nepal. The Tarai problem is explosive, but no less is the question of monarchy. The Maoists’ current politics of “non-violence” are only likely to be adhered to as long as they leave a significant footprint on main political themes, and most prominently their demand for a republic. In recent days, their leader Prachanda has actually been testing the waters to find peoples view of him as Nepal’s first president.


But before he dreams himself to far away from reality, there is an election to win. I would not be surprised if he would be rather disappointed with the election result. One voting analysis last year gave his party about 15% of the votes.


And if he does get his republican agenda through, and ousts the king, he will make a lot of Hindu people upset. Fundamentalists, of course. The Indian right-wing BJP party, possibly (bemused in common Nepali belief to sway an enormous influence on Nepal’s government. While this might have been the case 20 years ago, it is hard to see objective evidence matching the rumors any longer). And finally, the common Hindu man and woman. I have spoken to several people, in fact I would call them a silent majority, who support the king. Not because of his personal traits, but because they are Hindus and he is their king. They are surprisingly numerous among my contacts, but more surprisingly not many of them are actually likely to go and cast their vote. I just wonder what they will do with their beliefs and convictions if a republican order is implemented and the palace is demolished.



A new garden

I am happy to see that a serious and substantial political debate is finally starting to hit the street corners and tea shops in Kathmandu. Finally, at least the election is starting to seem realistic. Still many risks on the road ahead though. Nepalis have to decide about their “New Nepal”. How new will it be? How many of the old customs and institutions will remain? Nepal has a long history of integrating new and old in sometimes logically contradictory constructions. But if they want to grow some new plants in their “garden of 4 casts and 36 ethnicities” as their founder called the country 240 years ago, they’ll have to cut down some of the old trees, won’t they?

 

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Time to market (news photos, democracy and the loot)

Old news: My friend and colleague, Nick, in a sharp situation during the peoples uprising, April 2006. That's a cloud of tear gas behind him, he's trying to escape by the way.

© Morten Svenningsen


I’ve been looking for a better way to get some of my newsworthy photos out on the market. News photography is just a little part of what I’m doing, but we do have an election coming up here – probably. Right now I just have my web-site to use for fast turn-around times. In itself fine, but I’m afraid it’s still not that well known among broadsheet photo editors around the globe. And they usually don’t have time to surf around on the net and contact photographers they don’t already have a working relationship with. So I’ll need to affiliate myself with one of the big photo agencies or portals. Just not interested in joining a news agency who expect me to run around and cover every little event in the region.


So I was quite happy to come home yesterday and see in my inbox a solution present itself. My usual photo agency, Alamy, informed me that they intend to implement a 24h turn-around time from upload to online in stead of the usual 3 weeks! That opens up new possibilities within my existing business infrastructure. It’s still not quite upload-and-see-it-in-the-papers-next-day, but should be good enough for second cycle use. If just PE’s will start looking to Alamy for their news photos...


And here in Nepal the constituent assembly election date has now been set to April 10. Two years after the peoples uprising (v2), eight years after the last 4-year term election and 18 years after the first peoples uprising. Talk about a long time-to-market. Two years would have been okay, I suppose, if they’d just come out and said that from the beginning in stead of repeatedly setting dates and then postponing them.


If only they were as quick as the thieves of this country... Sabina had her mobile phone stolen Monday night – Tuesday afternoon she saw in on sale in a “second-hand” shop. Now that’s what I call time-to-market! Unfortunately, before she could get hold of some muscles (me - the police is a joke around here), the guy had taken it off the shelf and then tried to tell us that he just sold it. Right!


But if you ever have your phone stolen in Kathmandu, just look around in the second-hand shops on Bag Bazar. And bring some muscles or any other means of persuasion!

Tuesday, December 25, 2007

What the neighbors are up to

Hazardous work.
© Morten Svenningsen


Sometimes I see construction workers walk around on small ledges without safety ropes. I see them throwing tools to each other, sometimes they catch them, sometimes they don’t. If somebody passes by underneath and gets a screwdriver in the head, it’ll break their skull. So just look out when walking around. And just don’t fall down when you’re up there on the ledge. Then everything is fine. Fair enough.

But this thing that the neighbors are doing today takes the prize as the most stupid thing that I’ve seen in a while. These 3 guys they hired to paint their house are walking around on a 45 degree slope with a 20 foot drop below. Sometimes there’s something they can hold on to. Sometimes not. They also carry paint buckets and paint brushes. Down below is a metal fence with 3 inch spikes pointing straight up!

I was just starring (and shooting some photos) for 5 minutes, one guy lost balance but grabbed the other-one’s arm. Regained balance, phew... He would probably have survived the fall. Probably.

That’s the way it works here. I think the ILO would call it exploitation or something. I call it stupid. The Nepalese call it work.


Without a safety net.
© Morten Svenningsen


Nobody really celebrates Christmas around here, but anyway: Merry Christmas everybody!

Saturday, December 15, 2007

One photo a week

No posts here for a month and a half now. Sorry about that, I’ll try to post more often from now on. Even during the dry periods where nothing much apparently happens. But there’s always things happening inside my head. Well, maybe not this week, since I’ve been down with the flu. But my brain is now back on 90% power. One entry per week here should provide a more continuous feel for the local situation, I think. Often, it’s the little things that gives the best understanding, isn’t it?



Climate change on the horizon. This man in Nepalganj is using a more sustainable form of transport than us photographers, journalists and all the experts attending conferences in Bali and Hawaii.

© Morten Svenningsen



So, last week I was a few days in Nepalganj (a small town in the flatlands of Nepal, if you aren’t familiar with the local geography) doing a reportage for Save the Children. It was about the annual flooding and how it affects the local people there. This year it affected 336.534 people, according to some statistics the client brought. Man, where do they come up with those exact numbers?


Well, it’s a lot of people and it’ll probably just get worse over the years with the continuing population boom, global warming and all that. Of course, we’re now in the middle of the dry season here, so all I could do was to go around and take some photos of people showing how high the water was half a year ago. Damn! But, well, the client was happy...


But I’ve just been thinking about this climate change thing and what UN and all the other NGO’s are doing about it. Of course, we flew in from Kathmandu. Some of us from Europe. Meanwhile in Bali, thousands of delegates have been flying in to that big conference and next month they’ll all fly to Hawaii. That’s a lot of jet fuel burned straight into our atmosphere. Not to mention all the heated offices and 4WD vehicles they utilize here in Nepal. And what are they accomplishing? Here in Nepal, they do provide some relief, tents and rice and such, but more long-term improvements are happening really really slow. And with all their traveling around to meetings, their office generators and so on, I’ve got a feeling that the NGO’s are actually contributing more to the problem here than they’re mitigating it. Let’s at least say that one UN-staffer contributes about as much to the problem as a couple of typical Nepalese villages. That can’t be too far off!


I hope I’m wrong, God I do, but...


It wouldn’t be fair to publish the Nepalganj photos here yet, since the client hasn’t had a chance to run the story yet. So you’re just gonna have to make do with the one at the top of this entry. I don’t think they’ll use it.

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Nepal Breakdown (devotional, political & personal)

Woman passed out at Pashupatinath. At the annual Teej festival in Nepal, women fast all day long in honor of the Gods who, in return, will bestow them with a happy marriage. On this day, thousands of women are waiting in long queues outside the temple to offer their prayers. But in the baking sun, and on an empty stomach, it was too much for this young lady, leaving the premises feet first.

© Morten Svenningsen


I mentioned before that things were starting to thaw up on the political front here. But with the recent developments, things are actually starting to get quite hot. Yesterday, the Maoists decided to quit the government, thereby throwing the future of Nepal into great uncertainty. They’ve announced new “people's movement” and “people's action”, no new “people's war” though. And they haven’t left the SPA-M alliance, the parliament or the cantonments either. Their list of demands, 22 points, most prominently calls for the immediate declaration of a republic and a change in the electoral system (proportional in stead of first-past-the-post). So where did that come from all of a sudden?

Well, it’s actually some of the old demands that they conceded last year in the peace negotiations. They’ve pulled them out of the hat again now, for what can only reasonably be interpreted as fear of the constituent assembly election scheduled in two months.

So either they’ve just recently come to the conclusion that kidnapping, torture and warfare haven’t won them that many voters (surprise, surprise) or they’ve just been playing tactical games all along, never intending to settle for a 'bourgeoisie democracy'.

Or is it just hard bargaining, bluffing with a four-flush?

Either way, it is a blow in the face of all Nepali optimists who believed the major hurdle was passed with the signing of the different treaties last year. Paper’s not gonna do it alone. The actual implementation of the various agreements is still proving much more difficult.


On a personal note, I’ve been rather stretched out lately, but I now seem to have straightened things out. And it’s not the same thing! My main computer went belly-up on me, but it’s now back in full swing with a fresh re-format and re-install. And with the monsoon easing its grip, it looks like the ever-accumulating maintenance work and oppressive weather is over. I’ve also decided to try and do my work a bit more scheduled, a plain 8 hours a day in stead of the manic-depressive cycles of enthusiastic working around the clock, followed by periods of what feels like waking through a dessert, banging my head against a wall (oh yeah, there are lots of walls in the dessert!). That’ll work for a while, but in the long run it just drives me towards a burnout and a breakdown. I, of all people, should know that.

Oh, yeah. My 300 first Alamy photo’s finally made it through to the online-status this Monday!